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CARVOEIRO RESTAURANTS & BARS 2025

Food Life Tips Travel October 8, 2025

The summer season of 2025 has come and gone, but the memories of fun, laughter and great food last forever. In many ways, this has been my best summer yet in Carvoeiro, despite all the auxiliary drama that has plagued us as a result of a few rather toxic and soul sick community members, I have literally had the time of my life this summer, and learned a lot of interesting things about Carvoeiro, the people in this corner of paradise, especially where to eat and what to avoid. As a Lifestyle Journalist and avid Foodie, I share with you the good, the bad and the ugly….

EARTH CAFE

One of my favourite regular hangouts, is EARTH CAFE, which regularly queues out the door due to its popularity. I have been a regular at EARTH CAFE for over 8 years now, and I have never once been disappointed with the food or the service. The staff are always super friendly and accomodating, with a special mention to Andre and his Mom for their kindness, and friendly demeanour, and for always making sure that our picky tastes are catered for. Pauline the owner has a really great vibe, is super professional, and has created a wonderful working culture for her staff, which seem to stay with her for years, which is always a good sign that the work environment is a safe space and that the staff are happy and supported. EARTH CAFE is open all week serving breakfast / brunch / lunch, and hosts an boutique shop stocking local and artisan teas, condiments, chocolates, wine, arts and crafts. The menu us full of healthy options, and decadent treats.

It must be said, EARTH CAFE make the best scones in town, baked daily and served with artisan jam and proper clotted cream (not out of a can) and an awesome selection of smoothies, which are my go to faves when I visit. EARTH CAFE has a lovely sea view from the inside, as well as outdoor seating street side and makes the top list of my favourite restaurant in Carvoeiro every year. They are consistent, the vibe is good, the food is good, the staff are awesome, an all round winner!

CHEF’S CAFE

Newly opened this year in the area downstairs from CHEF’S KITCHEN, this fabulously stylish patisserie is decorated in neutral off white tones, and is embellished with unique off centre structural affectations. The staff are always super friendly and welcoming, and the proprietor Silvie is by far the hardest working woman in Carvoeiro, with an eye for perfection. CHEF’S CAFE is a welcome addition to the Carvoeiro coffee culture, baking fresh gourmet pastries and delicious breads every day. I am particularly fond of their filled croissants, their brownie, the Reuben pastrami sandwich, and the egg salad on brioche. I often take away a loaf of their artisan sourdough bread, which is the best in town. In 2025, this has become my favourite go to coffee spot, taking over from ENCCI, which was my favourite spot last year. Simply put, the quality of food and service at CHEF’S CAFE is just better, because the owner is always there to ensure that the standards are maintained, and that the staff stay on point.

Chef’s Cafe’s epic selection of pastries & bread

CARVOEIRO PLAZA HOTEL SKY BAR 360

As I am rather health conscious and not really a big drinker, I often opt for an iced coffee over alcoholic beverages when out with friends and family. In fact a good iced coffee is a glorious thing, and my go to favourites in most places. With a stunning view over the square and beach, I discovered this summer, completely by accident, that the CARVOEIRO PLAZA HOTEL SKY BAR 360 has the best iced coffees in town. So many places make a rather pathetic iced coffee, but you will not be disappointed in the offerings in the SKY BAR 360, which serves iced coffees in three different flavours.

DONNA MARIA

I booked DONNA MARIA for Black & White Night, which was my first visit there, and thus, I fell in love with this place, which has become my favourite restaurant on the square on the beachfront, having eaten there at least 6 times over the summer. The service is super professional and friendly, the food comes out fast, and the view is exceptional, particularly at sunset. That all being said, the best part about this DONNA MARIA is indeed the food, which is exceptional, and possibly the best Italian restaurant in town, being the sister restaurant to Villa Medici further up the road. My go to dish in any Italian restaurant is a Spaghetti Carbonara, and DONNA MARIA do the very best Carbonara in town, and they are not shy on the parmesan cheese, which comes freshly grated in a big bowl. DONNA MARIA also make the best pizza in town, and that is saying something considering over saturation of pizza restaurants in Carvoeiro. But it must be noted that the Medici Pizza, which is topped with prejunto, figs, honey and sheep cheese, with a perfect wood fire oven baked crust. In fact, when I wrote a piece raving about this pizza, both LEVELS & ENCCI adopted these toppings for their own pizzas.

One the subject of pizzas, it must be said that there are far too many places in town serving pizza, with no less than 3 out of 6 restaurants directly on the beachfront square serving pizza, with LEVELS having this year jumped on the pizza bandwagon with their version called a Pinza, which is an oval, Roman style pizza. There seems to be a distinct lack of originality in Carvoeiro, particularly in the tourist trap restaurants right on the beachfront.

BLACK SALT

Located in Monte Carvoeiro Square, just up the hill on the western cliff of Carvoeiro’s beachfront, I had been dying to try out BLACK SALT for some time. With a warm, clean, minimalistic, albeit masculine interior, I loved this restaurant as it has got one of the best menus in town. BLACK SALT has become one of my top restaurants recommendations if you want something a little bougie and unique, whilst not being overly stuffy or pretentious. The presentation of the dishes are original, such as how they serve the sauteed vegetables, not just as a side, but as a structural adornment on the plate. I was greatly impressed with unique dessert offerings such as their deconstructed cheesecake which was orgasmic. BLACK SALT do unique offerings such as their signature dish being Black Cod, which is cod fish sous vide in squid ink, which you won’t find anywhere else. The waiting staff were extremely professional, worked well as a team, and had exceptional knowledge of the menu, making good recommendations for food and wine. Jonas the owner is charismatic and runs a BLACK SALT with precision, which is now officially one of the best places in town, particularly since the closure of my favourite spot in Monte Carvoeiro, THE SQUARE by Raquel Marques.

JOTA LITA

If you looking for something very typically Portuguese, the place to go is JOTA LITA, which has been in business since 1988, serving up all the Portuguese classics such as Chicken Piri Piri, Portuguese Steaks, Iberian Black Pork (Porco Preto) but to name a few. This place has a very laid back, casual street side vibe, and the owner Lita is an absolute sweetheart, being a second generation owner, with her daughter also working in the restaurant. The staff here are super warm, friendly and efficient, and I recommend this place to everybody looking for authentic Algarvian cuisine and a warm, friendly atmosphere.

FAUSTINO’S

Having opened this year, this steakhouse has taken over the spot previously occupied by THE WOLF. The service was excellent, and the maple glazed burger was outstanding, possibly the best burger in town, and the only reason I would consider coming back here. Indeed, I would travel far for a great burger and FAUSTINO’S burger is an absolute winner

However, I found the cocktails to be underwhelming, and the steak was not the best. The pepper sauce was very watery and the double cooked potato chips and onion rings were not great either. Furthermore the serviettes were so full of chemicals that they burned my face and left my skin red. When I spoke to the owner about this, he seemed disinterested.

CAFE FINO

Opposite Faustino’s is CAFE FINO, which serves up the best English Breakfast in town, with perfectly buttered, thick slices of white bread toast, and real English bacon and sausages. One of my favourite meals, the English Breakfast is my guilty pleasure, and something I crave often. I just love sitting at CAFE FINO, relaxing in the comfortable pavement side couches with comfortable tastefully decorated cushions, complete with shade canopy. It is a great spot to do a bit of people watching, or just chill out for a while. They do a number of other cafe classics, but the English Breakfast is the reason I go there.

ENCCI

Falling a few places in my favour due to staff issues and stiff competition from CHEF’S CAFE, is ENCCI, which has a really unique breakfast / brunch / lunch menu, and then serves up pizzas at lunch and dinner. This is a great place to grab a Matcha or a Golden Latte and catch up with friends in their tranquil landscaped back garden. The interior is delightfully pale pink, and they often host a variety of unique and interesting cakes and bakes. Their Matcha Pancakes and Crouffle is to die for. Being a health and fitness buff, the owner Becci has also ensured a variety of healthy, nutrient dense brunchy bites. Becci has now opened up a second venue called SOLECCI in Salema, which I plan to check out shortly. My big criticism of ENCCI however is the staff. It does seem to be a bit of a toxic work environment, and last Christmas I was brought to tears by unjustified rudeness and attacks after sending back my Matcha for being cold. The service here can also be very slow, and the staff at times seem miserable and disinterested. Needless to say, they also have a high turnover of staff, as they always seem to have new faces serving, which do not seem to last very long.

CARVOEIRO BAR

A stable in the local bar scene, CARVOEIRO BAR is a super warm and friendly place, typical of an old school English pub, albeit Dutch owned. CARVOEIRO BAR is particularly cosy in winter, and opens up onto the street in summer. CARVOEIRO BAR hosts a variety of live entertainment, quiz nights and Karaoke on Wednesday nights, and also shows sports for those who like to go to pubs and stare at screens. If you fancy an epic cocktail, the bar staff are super skilled and make some of the best cocktails in town. As the owner, Bob, is a Dutchman, there is a variety of Dutch style fried snacks on offer, which are particularly satisfying during a boozy session.

BRAZZO

Newly opened this season, BRAZZO is a cheap and cheerful spot to get some cocktails and grilled meats, salad and chips, including Piri Piri Chicken for 8 Euros. We opted for the mix grill which was a little underwhelming, and to be honest I don’t see myself going back there, however it has become rather popular with the locals given that it is well priced. If you are looking for a cheap eat, BRAZZO is the place to go. The service and staff were very friendly and tried to accommodate our picky tastes as best as possible.

BERDISSIMO WINE BAR & ART GALLERY

Although this venue is no longer open, it was one of the places that I loved to visit. This elegant little wine bar was located on the square in Monte Carvoeiro, and stocked an epic selection of wines, fabulous cocktails, making the best Porn Star Martini I have ever had, whilst serving up delicious cheese, ham and olive platters. The owner Anett is a truly sweet lady, who gave me the opportunity to display my art in her gallery, which was a real privilege, and something I will always be truly grateful for.

Sadly, this lovely little venue closed down due to being bullied out of business by their neighbours. More about this at the end of this article.

SKY BAR TIVOLI

Possibly the most bougie and overpriced spot is the SKY BAR at the Tivoli Hotel. It must be said that the view and atmosphere here is magnificent, the service is indeed excellent, but the quality of food and beverage on offer is extremely mediocre for the price. This is however one of my best spots to enjoy the sunset and catch up with friends far from the madding crowd of the village. When the sun sets and temperature drops, the staff bring blankets and turn on the decorative fire heaters, which is a lovely touch. There is often a DJ playing music and the crowd that hang out here are a little more classy than the rabble that mooch about the bars in town, albeit a little pretentious.

PLACES TO AVOID

Anything on the square in front of the beach. Apart from the fact that all the restaurants on the square are overpriced tourist traps serving up below average to extremely awful food, there is a massive sewage tank under the square, and the smell is extremely unpleasant, especially when it is hot and busy. Furthermore, the drains that surround the square are infested with cockroaches given that there is infact a sewage tank under the square. I have literally had a cockroach crawl over my hand and across my nachos whilst drinking cocktails at LEVELS which totally freaked me out. Furthermore, I have been poison 3 times from LEVELS, once from the mold in the water bottle lids, because the proprietor and staff are dirty, sloppy people and don’t clean anything properly, and actually don’t give much of a shit about anybody’s well being. Furthermore, I have also been bullied and harassed by their staff, who took to Facebook to post taunting posts depicting my husband and I as apes, because I had the audacity to hold them to account for not maintaining the basic standards of professional service, etiquette and basic hygiene. The passive aggressive bullying from the staff there has gone as far as to break up friendships and cost me business opportunities due to their vengeful persecution of me. As a customer, I was only ever kind and supportive, often doing doing write ups and promoting this venue, and I am always polite to all the staff, and always made an effort to befriend those I could. I was never belligerent or rude to the staff, and have always tried to help those I could with various opportunities or troubles they were facing. As a result of the disgusting behaviour of LEVELS, I am currently suing LEVELS for slander with deliberate intention to cause loss and harm, whilst violating my constitutional rights to earn a living and live with dignity. I have so much evidence to prove the actual malice standard required for defamation cases. LEVELS is also being sued by former staff members, one in particular, for dismissal without payment of monies owed. This is such a toxic work environment, and the staff there always look completely miserable, and often lash out at customers.

The most toxic and narcissistic business owners sadly are the proprietors of the dining establishments on the square, and their staff is just as toxic, miserable and nasty, and this includes XAMOR, which also has an abusive and toxic work environment, with screeching and screaming often heard coming from the owner from across the square. Needless to say, they also struggle to hold onto staff, and are being sued by former staff members, with one person actually ending up in psychiatric care due to a mental breakdown. Furthermore, their food is utterly shit. Lots of people complained about how bad the food was over the summer on the CARVOEIRO COMMUNITY Facebook page.

In fact, as I administrate the largest Facebook group in the area, being CARVOEIRO COMMUNITY, I often see people asking for restaurant recommendations, and nobody ever recommends any of the restaurants directly on the square for the above mentioned reasons.

COCKTAIL GARDEN

BERDISSIMO opened in Monte Carvoeiro late year, and from the moment they opened, their neighbour, Luis and Catia, the owners of COCKTAIL GARDEN, began to bully and harass the owner of BERDISSIMO. COCKTAIL GARDEN stole property from BERDISSIMO, a fence that was erected to divide the terrace of the two properties. COCKTAIL GARDEN also vandalised BERDISSIMO by cutting their internet line. COCKTAIL GARDEN threatened and tormented Anett and her partner, and beat up one of BERDISSIMO’S customers, who was doing absolutely nothing other than sitting there having a drink. This person who got beaten up, just so happened to be my husband, who had to spend a day at Portimao hospital. COCKTAIL GARDEN has a long history of being awful to the other businesses in Monte Carvoeiro, and they are currently facing charges of aggravated assault amongst others…. And thus, I implore the community and tourists, please do not support violent bullies that abuse the local community. There are plenty of other places to enjoy a good cocktail in town, safer environments where the staff of friendly and professional.

THE ROUND UP SALOON

This is controversial because THE ROUND UP SALOON is the best Karaoke Bar in town, but it is a disease ridden place. Over the course of this summer, I have seen at least a dozen people who have gotten really sick from some virus / bug they picked up at THE ROUND UP SALOON, many of which have posted about how sick they got on the CARVOEIRO COMMUNITY Facebook group. Being a Naturopath, I have treated many of these people myself, and have heard directly from them that they got sick after attending THE ROUND UP SALOON. As someone who never ever gets sick, as I am really healthy, I too have gone down for 3 weeks at one point from something I picked up there, and it took me another 2 months for my voice to back to normal as the throat infection did not subside. Normally if I do catch a cold or flu, it takes me no more than 3 days, a week max, to get over it. I honestly have never been so sick in my life. The illness presented with Covid like symptoms, and indeed, even my husband picked up something when he was there and he is still not over it six months later, as he has to this day, an ongoing scratch and sore throat which he just can’t seem to get rid of. Maybe he got long Covid… We just do not know, he is still suffering, and many more continue to get sick after being there.

Furthermore, the owner, known as Big Will, is very handsy, and likes to inappropriately touch people, at one point grabbing my husband’s phallus, and having in the past grabbed women’s buttox according to the testimony of past bouncers. The owner will also make very inappropriate commentary such as “That girl is asking to be raped” if a girl looks to sexy, or is wearing something short and / or tight, which is totally disgusting, because no woman asks to be raped. That is the nature of rape, it is non consensual and forceful, and something I have in my past experienced, and thus I find such vulgar commentary completely sick and highly inappropriate, the kind of thing only gutter trash would dare to say. Some time back, I was confronted with a rather tacky comment when Big Will quipped to my utter disgust, ” No sex in the toilets”. I mean, what kind of a business owner says that to customers, particularly respectable, well presented, well dressed, conservative middle aged customers. I found this comment grossly inappropriate, as if I can’t control my sexual urges to the point that I would engage in sexual activity in a dirty public toilet. I was absolutely grossed out at the thought and insinuation. This low level classless behaviour is beneath me and is as dirty and disgusting as the disease ridden venue.

Every year that I live in Carvoeiro brings new adventure and growth to my life. I learn, I love, I grow stronger through adversity. Indeed, I have a love / hate relationship with this town, and often think that perhaps I should pack up and go elsewhere. However I just can’t seem to bring myself to leave. This little corner of paradise is not perfect, there are issues for sure, but ultimately, I am happier here than I have ever been anywhere in my life… and I do not intend to give that up easily.

PEACE LOVE UNITY RESPECT

Mel Ve

www.melve.life/lifestyle

NO AI USED IN WRITING THIS ARTICLE

For more about me, please check out my website, explore my various bodies of work and journalism, read my books, watch my documentaries, view my art, and look into my naturopathic remedies.

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HOW DOES PORTUGAL RATE AS A TOURIST DESTINATION IN 2025?

Travel July 3, 2025

Like many expats who live in Algarve, I have family and friends scattered all over the world, and from time to time, people pull into this corner of paradise for a little visit. Knowing where to take savvy, well travelled loved ones is important during your limited time together. The right venue will create amazing memories, and the wrong places can be unpleasant experiences.

Never wishing for my nearest and dearest too suffer the slings and arrows of fools, I carefully pre vetted establishments for a rare but fabulous visit by my dear Mother, whom I had not seen in 3 years.

Here is my feedback on hit and misses:

VILA VITA | A place that never misses a beat and always seems to impress even the most spoilt and luxuriated traveller, is VILA VITA PARC. Enjoyed a lovely lunch on the terrace on my husband’s birthday.

The soft shell crab sandwich was delightful. Some shopping V-Life and a stroll through the epic grounds shows how the best resort in this part of the Algarve, has created fantastic luxurious spaces using the natural surroundings.

MONCHIQUE | The beaches of the Algarve are indeed so spectacular, that many tourists do not make their way to Monchique, the spectacular mountain region that is indeed a must visit. This area was most loved by my mother, and she really appreciated the village charm and natural beauty.

My art @ Berdissimo Wine Bar & Art Gallery in Monte Carvoeiro

BERDISSIMO WINE BAR & ART GALLERY | Tucked away in Monte Carvoeiro, Berdissimo is an elegant wine bar and art gallery is a great place to take more refined people for a drink. With a delightful selection of wines, including my new favourite red DeMuerte, this place retails wine, does wine tasting sessions, and hosts some interesting events. For art lovers, there is an eclectic collection of beautiful art at reasonable prices on sale.

CHEF’S CAFE | On par with world class cafes, Chef’s Cafe, a new addition to Carvoeiro’s coffee & pastry scene, has had me coming back for more and more… and so of course I had to introduce my beloved mommy dearest to the delights of well appointed cafe. As always the sourdough breads and croissants are epic.

EARTH CAFE | Always a winner with super friendly staff and consistent quality food, but the thing I took my Mother there for, was the uber awesome fresh scones with jam and cream. Scones are an elegant and timeless classic, perfect for refined tastes, and Earth Cafe make the very best in town!

Mom and I under Encci’s famous Bougainvilleas

ENCCI | Spectacularly pink, air-conditioned and with a stunning outdoor dining areas front and back, we popped into Encci for a matcha and chai latte, given that they do great speciality hot beverages. Unfortunately we did not stay for food as the services was a bit slow as they are understaffed like many places, and it took a while to get served and get our drinks, but we had planned to get back there another day for their nighttime repertoire of musical entertainment, but we got distracted by entertainment in the main square instead.

… which leads me to the best find of the year…

**Carvoeiro BLACK & WHITE night 2025 – OUTRAGEOUSLY AWESOME EXPERIENCE!**

Best view of all the action from Donna Maria

DONNA MARIA | Back in February when my mother confirmed her booking to visit Carvoeiro, I booked a table for BLACK & WHITE night at Donna Maria, on Carvoeiro’s beach front main square. I had not expected much, given that one Italian Restaurant is pretty much the same as another… Not only did we have the bests seats in the house, being front and centre on an upstairs platform which had clear glass balustrades, offering panoramic views of all the activity on the square for Black & White, which could been seen through the glass whilst seated for dining, the food was absolutely spectacular, some of the best we have experienced on the square. In past years, we had pretty much ignored Donna Maria in favour of other infamous square flanking venues, several of which I have had VIP seating and dinner arrangements for BLACK & WHITE night. Of all the places on the square, Donna Maria’s upstairs terrace has the best views over the square, with an epic view of the beach. This was honestly the best BLACK & WHITE night we have yet to experience in Carvoeiro, having done many previous ones. Spending BLACK & WHITE at Donna Maria was such an epic experience, that we returned there again during the course of my mother’s visit, for our final meal together on her last night in Carvoeiro. I am absolutely obsessed with the Medici pizza and the other food was excellent too. I am not easy to impress. In a world of banality and mediocrity, I am continually disappointed. Donna Maria exceeded my expectations, and I am so grateful given that I no longer will give my patronage to any of the other tourist traps on the square.

INNER GLOW | After a lot of sun, sand and sea, being dumped by a few ferocious waves, my mother requested to have her ears purified by means of ear candling. At a cost of only 25 Euros per person, and doing house calls, Cher from Inner Glow came to my mother’s holiday rental apartment, and performed her magic in a professional way for all of us. This was my first experience with ear candling, and my immediate feeling afterwards was feeling so light and open, and given what came out of my ears, I am not surprised at how light and cleansed I felt. Cher also does a full repertoire of healing massages.

WHY NOT CAR HIRE | Whilst being perfectly comfortable using Ubers to get most places, We hired a car for 3 days to do trips to Lisbon, Monchique, Alvor and Armação de Pêra. However it must be noted that parking is always a problem in popular touristy places, so plan day trips with an early start. Why Not delivered our car to us and collected it, and it was a relatively easy exchange process. We were thrilled with how easy and convenient the whole process was, and the staff were really friendly and helpful.

At Club Nau on Praia Grande in Ferragudo

BEACH LIFE | The best part of the Algarve is the beaches and natural beauty. There is no shortage of spectacular vistas and landscapes to immerse yourself in. However I must just mention that vast majority of beach front restaurants are mediocre at best. Having visited over many years visited Levels on Carvoeiro’s beach front, Club Nau on Praia Grande, O Stop in Vale Centeanes, I am always left disappointed with the food offerings of such establishment. It is a pity because these places have so much potential due to their location being right on the beach, but as always I feel let down by mediocre quality food and beverage offerings.

ENTERTAINMENT | Given that my darling Mother chose to visit during the summer solstice in order to celebrate BLACK & WHITE night here in Carvoeiro, it was great to experience an event I have attended many times before, through the eyes of someone who has never seen it.

Having last year flown out my life long friend and superstar DJ buddy DJ Lora, just for BLACK & WHITE, if ever I wanted to bring someone important over and to impress them with what the Algarve has to offer, this would be the exact time to do it, and celebrate the summer solstice, an ancient ritual celebration under the aegis of a rebranded ritual called Black & White, and which has evolved into one of the trendiest annual parties to hit up during European summer season.

The following weekend after Black & White night, we happened to wonder into the square, which had a wonderful party atmosphere, with somewhat less people than the previous weekend’s festivities, but great to see a really family friendly DJ Capitao banging out tunes of classic and contemporary genres. The square was alive with dancing, and much fun was had by all ages,including my dearest Mother with sore knees, once again reiterating Carvoeiro as a safe, family friendly destination (unlike Albufeira).

SHOPPING & STYLE | Due to airport chaos, one of my mother’s bags did not make it, and she was required to do some shopping in and around Carvoeiro. I got to spend some time perusing the shops, and we managed to pick up a few lovely cotton and linen pieces from Singh Collection, but in all honesty, the retail, clothing and style is very limited in Carvoeiro, and what there is, is of limited quality, and often quite bland. I did find a few lovely pieces in Ti Teresa, but of course none of the really cool stuff came in my size, being tall and curvy. I am always hopeful that someone somewhere will open up a truly stylish boutique, which does not only cater for Portuguese sized people. However it must be said that there are some rather stylish hats about, you just have to dig through the collections that are displayed along the streets. Being a Stylist myself, I long for something interesting…different… something more…

Is it just me? Apparently not. When DJ Lora visited for Black & White in 2024, I took her on a tour of Carvoeiro, and she was equally disappointed in the lack of appealing apparel for sale. Those with style, and money to spend on said style, definitely find Carvoeiro wanting of options, a fact that was once again made abundantly clear when my Mother dearest asked me “Where do you shop?”, to which I had to reply “Online!”.

SEASONAL EMPTINESS | Living in the Algarve for the past 8 years, all year round through the ebbs and flows of tourist season and solar cycles, it has become abundantly obvious to me that the summer of 2025 is not as busy as previous years have been. Indeed, you can even find parking relatively easily at some of the most popular beaches, something that would normally be unheard of at this time of year. The beaches seem emptier… Even the Carvoeiro BLACK & WHITE night was not as busy as previous years… One need only look at the restaurants and local businesses to see how very apparent it is that tourists staying away… So what is really going on? Is this a symptom of economic collapse? Or tourists simply going elsewhere?

With relatively great weather guaranteed throughout summer, and endless natural beauty, epic landscapes and stunning beaches, one has to wonder what on earth is happening to Portugal’s tourism?

Despite the fact that we had a lovely time during my Mother’s recent trip to Portugal, there are a few things that are probably worth mentioning, which could potentially explain the drop in tourism, and why people are giving Portugal a miss.

LISBON AIRPORT | Rated as one of the worst airports in the world, Lisbon airport has truly lived up to its reputation at the onset of peak tourist season, with lines for passport control taking up to 9 hours to clear. For those who have never had the misfortune of ever being stuck in this queue, let me enlighten you to the inhumane conditions. Firstly, there is no air conditioning and it is now midsummer and you are stuck with hot sweaty bodies back to back in a queue. There nowhere to sit. You are required to stand for hours on end with no idea how long you will be there. There is no water available and no access to toilets. During my 70 year old mother’s 5 hour standing wait in this queue, several people fainted, several elderly people got into difficulty, and the only doctors available to help were the ones who were also passengers in the queue. This is an absolutely disgraceful state of affairs.

LUGGAGE | After clearing passport control, luggage was scattered all over the airport. My Mother only retrieved one of two suitcases in all of the fiasco, being the suitcase full of gifts for me, and had to enjoy her entire two week holiday in the Algarve with hand luggage items and a few pieces purchased from around Carvoeiro. As of yet, her luggage has not been found.

The reason that my Mother flew into Lisbon instead of choosing Faro, was because Emirates only fly to Lisbon, and my mother chose Emirates because it is the best, and that is what my Mother is used to, and they allow two large suitcases into cargo, instead of only one suitcase like most other airline. But despite this, we ended up with only one suitcase anyway. The limitations of Faro airport forces high value travellers to go through Lisbon.

TRANSFER FROM LISBON TO ALGARVE | Due to the extensive period of time that it took to come through passport control, a limousine service transfer that had been booked to take my Mother from Lisbon to Carvoeiro, cancelled, leaving my Mother stranded at Lisbon airport after her 5 hour ordeal in passport control, which had by this time left her knees so sore she was battling to stand. Exasperated and in pain, my savvy and well travelled mother made her way to the bus station and caught a bus to Lagoa, where my husband and I picked her up just before midnight after two days of travel from South Africa, and brought her to her beachfront rental in Carvoeiro.

COST vs POSH | With the cost of everything going up all the time, the cost of living has doubled since covid, and Portugal is no longer the budget destination of Europe. Once one of the most sought after holiday destinations in the world due to Portugal being ranked as the second cheapest country in Europe whilst also being one of the prettiest and sunniest, the “Budget Holiday” status no longer applies. With villa, hotel, car hire, tolls, restaurant prices now on par or eclipsing that of more upmarket European destinations, holiday makers are now holidaying elsewhere most likely – Montenegro, Croatia, Morocco and Egypt for example costs half the price. Furthermore, were Portugal able to move with the times and offer a more upmarket experience, to meet the price tag, both in terms of product and service, that may then present reasonable argument leaning towards value for money. But the honest truth is that Portugal is disastrously entrenched in mediocrity, with the sophistication and efficiency of a third world country, whilst now having the added disadvantage of being too expensive for those willing to put up with said mediocrity.

WHERE PEOPLE COME TO DIE | A rather alarming point to note is the overabundance of old people, and lack of young people. It is common knowledge that Portugal has an aging population, with over 50% of the population being on state pension, with many foreign people retiring in Portugal, whilst at the same time, many young people are leaving and seeking better paid jobs elsewhere. In fact, restaurants and bars are struggling to recruit good staff, part due to the mass exodus of youth, poor wages and lack of affordable accomodation for minimum wage workers. Lets also not forget the declining birth rates due to the cost of living and vaccine induced infertility, miscarriage and premature infant deaths. Portugal has afterall boasted being the most vaccinated country in Europe, claiming more than 90% of the population had been vaccinated during the Covid scamdemic.

SERVICE STAFF | Although the vast majority of the service staff we have dealt with in hospitality have been friendly enough, there are some who are clearly suffering from the effects of being understaffed, and it is affecting their attitude and amiability. Having in the past written extensively about unpleasant hospitality workers, and having caused some ripples as a result, I will not names names or point fingers here, rather I shall offer up my sympathies, and I can clearly see that certain people are overworked, over stressed and underpaid, which further compounds the issue with a high turnover of staff. Numerous restaurants and bars are constantly recruiting, and staff retention is at an all time low.

NOBODY GIVES A SH*T! | The rule of law is very limited in Portugal. If you have a genuine issue, the police and GNR are very difficult to make a case with, deal with, and get anywhere with, especially if you are foreign and / or do not speak fluent Portuguese. Court cases can take years to get any case heard, and justice is slow and precarious, if there is indeed any at all. In fact I have one going since 2020, and I have not heard from my lawyer for 3 years, and we have no idea when our case will be heard. Portugal is a beautiful country to visit, but if an emergency such as theft, attack, sexual assault, should you get into an accident, or should any such matter happen to you, be prepared to be treated inefficiently and inadequately. The state run infrastructure is crumbling and is inefficient, emergency services are overstretched, and government departments are failing, a matter which becomes most apparent when one takes into consideration that the former Border Agency, SEF, was disbanded, and another organisation was set up, and this new organisation are unable to work the appointment making software for people wishing to make applications to have their residency permits renewed. Hundreds of thousands of people are waiting years and are being restricted in movement as a result, being stuck in Portugal and unable to travel without updated residence permits, which has an effect of travel for work / income, livelihood. This is a violation of basic constitutional rights, such as to circulate freely, earn a living, and live with dignity. It is indeed a complete and utter cluster f*ck!

DON’T DARE COMPLAIN | One of the more astonishing things that I have had to endure about the Portuguese culture, is the xenophobic attitude towards foreigners / expats. Sure, the Portuguese have many reasons to resent foreigners, and I am not arguing with these reasons. I actually believe they are valid reasons, and I would probably feel the same way were I in their shoes. But I am not. The shoes I have to walk in are those of someone who has a South African passport, has been married to a European National for 24 years, and we have been settled in Portugal for the past 8 years. Being in these shoes has thus given me the insight as to the love hate relationship the Portuguese nationals have with expats / tourists. Case and point is when I dare to complain about how inefficient government departments are, which are quite literally hindering my freedom and livelihood, I have been met with the ignorant missive of “Well if you don’t like it, go back to your country”. To which I respond, “Well thank you, maybe one day I will when I am ready, but right now I live here within legal parameters, and I have every right to be here and not have my basic constitutional rights violated due to lack of structural inefficiency, blatant incompetence and neglect of duty”.

PROPERTY SHOPPING | With the idea of potentially purchasing a property here, I am sad to say that Portugal is just far to lacking for people who have high standards. The agents we dealt with were unprofessional, and services and amenities to assist expats, is non existent. In fact there is an outright resentment and antagonism to foreigners, whilst being perfectly willing to take money from foreigners. The Golden Visa program which encourages foreign investment into property, has people waiting years without any idea as to when their visas will be issued, and it is putting foreigners off investing in Portugal. Like the many people who already live here and are waiting for years to get their residents permits renewed, so too are there many people who have spent lots of money buying property with the aim of getting a Golden Visa, only to be still stuck waiting some 3 years later… I have a list of personally connected family friends and associates who are affected by this, some of which have put their entire life’s savings into purchasing a property in Portugal, and are not stuck waiting indefinitely for their Golden Visa, with no idea as to when (or if) it will be issued…

….and to be honest, it is a rather disgusting state of affairs!

We are as always left with the eternal mystery… How does Portugal work?

Nobody seems to know the answer.

PEACE LOVE UNITY RESPECT

Mel Ve

www.melve.life/lifestyle

www.melve.life/stylist

Finally it is complete… My latest book

OPHIUSSA – Portugal’s Dragon Legacy

This is the third book of my Dragonology body of work.

Check out:

Dragonology book I – SPELL BREAKER

Dragonology book II – THEOPHIS

www.melve.life/books

www.melve.life/dragonology

www.melve.life/theophis

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BRUNCH in CARVOEIRO with Mel Ve

Adventure Food Life Nature Travel October 2, 2024

My restaurant reviews published in local magazines

For over two decades, I have been writing reviews for various restaurants, bars, venues, events etc, either on specially dedicated blogs, or for newspapers and magazines, in at least 4 different countries. Being an avid foodie and party lover, I enjoy sharing my experiences, for whatever they may be worth to other people. Having lived on the Algarvian coast since 2017, I have had plenty of time to explore the local food and party scene, which has grown over the last few years, especially here in Carvoeiro where I live.

Brunch is without a doubt, my favourite meal of the day, and when out and about in Carvoeiro, there are a few places which I like but for different reasons. It is indeed hard to pick a favourite, for one place does this thing well, and the other does that well, but one thing is for sure, there is no shortage of great coffee shops and epic breakfast / brunch spots in Carvoeiro, which has seen an upswing in quality over the last few years, and we are truly grateful for this. Below is a list of my favourite places for a breakfast / brunch / lunch in Carvoeiro.

PHOTOGRAPHY by Mel Ve | melve.life © **All rights** **reserved**

LEVELS | I have always been a cappuccino lady, a fetish I inherited from my Mother, but lactose intolerance means that enjoying the milky froth has become troublesome for me. This being the Algarve, it had for years been impossible to enjoy a cozy coffee the way I liked it for the longest time, as indeed, a well rendered Oat Milk Cappuccino is truly joyous thing, not to mention a rare and hard won treasure.

Oh yes, when it comes to my coffee, I am extremely fussy, and like it just right, and no place in Carvoeiro is able to get that plant based cappuccino option just right, except for Levels, which opened 3 years ago. From the perfect oat milk froth, to the clean, defined lines of the latte art, to the perfect flavour, (so good in fact, I never have to add sugar) Levels make the best Oat Milk Cappuccinos in town.

I am also a big fan of their iced coffee selection, which are just as good as their warm counterpart. Amongst the coffee loving locals, it is commonly known that this is the best quality coffee in the village without a doubt. I have no idea which coffee Levels use, but I love it, and indeed, this is their strength. Being right on the beach, I never pass up an opportunity to sip that perfect cuppa, whilst watching the ebb and flow of Carvoeiro’s main square. A visit to Carvoeiro’s beach front is not complete without a coffee break at Levels, and for genuine coffee lovers, this place has yet to be beaten in my humble opinion. Open everyday for BRUNCH, LUNCH & DINNER.

Encci has a chic pale pink interior with spacious landscaped garden

ENCCI | Being brand new in town, having opened in March 2024, Encci is probably the place I visited most this year. I love the tucked away, landscaped garden, and the pale pinkness of the decor, for I am indeed a pink addict. This elegant pink eatery does some really unique breakfast dishes including a French Toast dish topped with crunchy coconut flakes, coconut foam and berries. Think more Bread and Butter pudding, than a traditional French Toast. Also a winner is their Matcha Pancakes, and Eggs Benedict.

Date & Curry spread with sourdough toast

I am a big fan of the Date & Curry Spread which is served with toasted sourdough, and is just the right snack for in between meals. They also do this as a platter of 3 spreads, which come served with crudite and sourdough toast.

I am particularly fond of the Ginger & Turmeric health shots that they serve in little square corked bottles, accompanied by a shot glass. They are intense and potent and thus, come with a warning from the very polite and friendly waiting staff.

The coffees, smoothies and fresh baked goods need a little bit of work, as I feel that these items let down an otherwise classy, elegant establishment. I feel that this is still an evolving experient, as the hybrid space concept is super cutting edge, and some of the aforementioned need to take time to find their final perfection.

At night this beautiful brunch venue with its epic back garden, transforms into a pizzeria, and hosts an art and craft market, pop up events, live performers and DJ’s. The front of the restaurant has seating under the Bougainvillea, whilst looking down into the old winding streets of Carvoeiro. Indoors boasts double height ceilings, with spacious and comfortable air conditioned seating inside. Worth mentioning is how beautiful their branding and marketing is, with a totally fresh and different feel compared to everything else in Carvoeiro. There is free parking for patrons, and pets are allowed. Open everyday for BRUNCH, LUNCH & DINNER

ORGANICS by TANIA | Always one of my firm favourite in Carvoeiro, because this place makes food with love. Run by a lovely mother and daughter team, everything that comes from this place is absolutely delicious, freshly made and done with care. You can actually taste the love in the food. From the epic pancake selections, to the salads and sandwiches, this is place is an all round winner, and never misses a beat when it comes to quality and value for money. Open for BRUNCH & LUNCH (closed on Mondays)

EARTH CAFE | The first of the trendy brunch venues, this Carvoeiro icon is the perfect place for the health conscious, offering a variety of nutritious breakfast dishes, including vegan and gluten free options. I am particularly fond of their freshly baked, fresh cream & jam scones, which I try to avoid with great difficulty, but treat myself every now and then. However, my favourite thing to get from Earth Cafe is their smoothies.

Boasting the best smoothies in Carvoeiro, I always feel nutritionally boosted when I make my stop there during my morning exercise walks up and down the cliffs of Carvoeiro. Their smoothie menu is unique and interesting, and made from fresh ingredients, not concentrates. My two favourite smoothies are the WAKE UP, which is made of iced oat milk, dates and coffee; and the AVOGOGO, which is an avocado based smoothie. This place queues out the door, due to its great vibe, with beautiful sea views from inside. Pets are welcome and there is a newly furnished outside seating area of benches for a streetside cafe vibe. The decor and branding of Earth Cafe hints at a retro, art deco vibe, with a beautiful shop of artesian produce for those wanting something a little authentic and high end. Open everyday for BRUNCH & LUNCH

THE SQUARE by RAQUEL MARQUES | Upfront it must be said that this is my favourite restaurant in Carvoeiro, and Raquel Marques is probably the most skilled chef in town. And apart from doing the most epic dinner menu and cocktails, THE SQUARE also does delicious breakfasts, serving up some classic delicious egg dishes and adventurous pancake combos. Complete with a play area for kids, this is a perfect spot for families. THE SQUARE is Located in a pretty little enclave up the hill in Monte Carvoeiro, and it is flanked by some other nice restaurants, and the iconic Cocktail Garden (who do the best Negronis in Carvoeiro – TIP: Try the Smoky Negroni)

SEGREDO DOS AVOS | For early risers (or those who have not yet been to sleep), dog walkers, joggers and commuting professionals, the best place to stop in for an early morning coffee is Segredos dos Avos, which is open at 7:30am! Located literally behind a counter half way up Rua do Farol a.ka. Restaurant Hill, this innocuous little coffee shop also sells amazing pastries, many local specialities, with some interesting surprises and variations of cakes and confectionary treats. Run by a mother and daughter team, all items are homemade on site, and they also sell fresh Portuguese bread rolls and loaves. This is a gathering point for many locals first thing in the morning. Open everyday until 5pm.

CAFE FINO | If it is an good old fashioned English Breakfast you are after, the best one is town can be found at CAFE FINO, which is located near Earth Cafe at the top of Rua do Farol a.k.a. Restaurant Hill. Complete with thick slices of toast, beans, proper bacon and English pork sausages, this is the place for the perfect fry up. I particularly love the comfortable pallet furniture and pergola on the street, giving it a true street cafe feel, and I can chill there for hours if I am not careful. It is an interesting spot to do some people watching, as locals and tourists wonder up and down the hill. This place gets very busy during tourist season. Open for BRUNCH, LUNCH & DINNER

If you want to travel a little bit out of the village, the BREAKFAST / BRUNCH at TIVOLI and VILA VITA PARC are for more refined tastes, but definitely worth the travel and cost.

Carvoeiro is said to be one of the most photographed and published of the picturesque, quaint Algarvian beach towns, boasting a plethora of fabulous places to to eat and drink. Being a local resident, I am blessed to be able to experience this amazing corner of paradise.

Peace Love Unity Respect

Mel Ve

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